WhereSheGoes

Manifesting a Birthday Buddy - Luang Prabang, Laos

I woke up early and felt great so I decided to go out for an early morning walk. I had an extra spring to my step as I sang Happy Birthday to myself in my head. I was pleased to discover that I was staying just around the corner from the morning market. Boasting everything fresh from fruits, vegetables, rice, spices, noodles, and meats skewered on a stick to live chickens and small pigs in carryable handwoven baskets. It was clearly *the* place to be first thing in the morning as the place was bustling with locals and the odd tourist snapping photos with their wide lens.

I happened upon a pile of cherimoyas and bought myself a birthday trio. Then I got lost in some charming narrow side streets which were filled with guesthouses. I decided upon a place for breakfast and was elated when they served me my first Lao coffee of the day. It was divine.

Lao coffee is really something else, in my humble opinion. I have heard that most of the countries in South East Asia battle for this title of best coffee. I often wonder if it is because the popular alternative is the Nescafe instant granules. After having that a few times, if you are served a proper cuppa joe, no matter where you are its bound to be the “best you’ve ever had”. I guess everyone has their own view on the topic but for me, Laos does it right. And then some!

I was on my way back to my guesthouse with no real plan in mind, when I happened past a tour agency around the corner from my hotel. I decided to stop in to see what was on offer as I had been thinking it may be nice to go see the waterfall today. There was a sweet looking girl at the end of the counter who seemed troubled by all the choices. I offered her my two cents, summarizing what I had learned the day about the local tours. She was very appreciative and we seemed to get on, so we decided take a day trip to the waterfalls together. Armed with a bag of cherimoyas and a new friend, I smiled to myself that my birthday was already turning out to be fantastic and it wasn’t even 10 o’clock!

Grateful for birthday luck.

The Fun is in the Getting There - Luang Prabang, Laos

The next day I boarded a small 8 passenger minibus that would take me to Luang Prabang. I was directed to sit in the front seat as I was the only one traveling alone. Part of my job was to periodically open the drivers water bottle and keep him hydrated for the 7 hour ride. The time flew by and I suppose that had something to do with the breathtaking landscape we were traversing.

We passed by more than a dozen tiny towns full of old wooden boxes houses with dirt floors. Majority of the people, old and young, were working at smashing bunches of long grass on the road repeatedly. At first I thought they were making the brooms I have been so used to using here in SE Asia. Then I began to think that this has something to do with rice…I am not sure but there was way too much of it to be all brooms. I felt a little ignorant that I didn’t know how rice is made but I resolved to find out.

Perhaps the thing that struck me most was the children. They were exceptionally beautiful. I couldn’t get enough of them and their rosy cheeks. I hoped that we would make a stop somewhere I would be able to have some interaction with them. One brave young toddler yelled and waved his arms in lighthearted defiance at our passing van. Our driver blasted his horn in response and scared the little guy practically out of his skin.

We stopped at the top of one mountain at a remote makeshift restaurant that was obviously a family home. Our driver popped out of the van and motioned to us that we had 15 minutes. He was obviously expected as the small thin woman quickly laid out a veritable feast for him.

I followed suit and ordered some vegetable dish which infact, turned out to be one of the best I have had yet. I suspect that the greens were plucked from her garden minutes before hitting the pan. And whatever the sauce was, it was perfectly seasoned which is tough to do for a picky salt lover as myself.

My favorite part of this journey so far was the interaction that I had with the children at this short but sweet rest stop. They were two girls about three and six with the rosiest cheeks I have ever seen. Shy but curious they peered out at us slowly sneaking closer and closer. I was able to tempt them with a few sparkly stickers which I stuck on the tops of their hands. Just when you think their gorgeous brown eyes couldn’t get any bigger, they did. Suddenly I was their new friend and to be honest, I couldn’t get enough of them. I was the last one back to the van after having dragged out my goodbyes to this charming little family as long as possible.

Finally we arrived in Luang Prabang which was not as beautiful as I had expected it to be. Maybe because it is a UNESCO world heritage site I thought it would be much more…majestic. But it was kind of more geared towards history and architecture. I guess I left the magical nature behind in Vang Vieng.

Grateful for chance encounters.

Creature Parade - Vang Vieng, Laos

It has happened a handful of times now and seems to be coming more frequent as the day goes on. It reminds me of scenes from the Matrix where in mid-fight scene, everything will slow down to a snails pace just for a few seconds. The effect is that everything is near frozen creating an intense sensory experience. I am not sure what it is that is creating this bizarre phenomenon that has me caught in the moment. I swear I haven’t been partaking in the local drink or any other substances for that matter. Infact, I have been eating relatively clean since discovering Laap, traditional Laos food.

Laap is a savory mixture of herbs, spices and mint leaves mixed with your choice of protein (fish for me but I have tasted it done successfully with tofu). There appears to be no added fat or oil so the dish is extremely healthy and surprisingly light. It is usually served with sticky rice but I prefer steamed and brown if possible. Matched with the long green beans and cucumber and you have yourself quite a meal. After eating it I find I have tremendous energy and feel light yet pleasantly full. Needless to say, it is my new favorite food and I shall be eating it every day so long as I can find it.

It is almost as if for a few brief moments gravity and time are warped. I find myself moving a whole lot slower and a sensation of warm happiness saturates me from the inside out. It’s very cool indeed. After the initial shock and worry that perhaps there may be something seriously wrong with me, I have begun just observing it. So far there are no consistent similarities between the occurrences so I have wonder what brings it on….

Nevermind. I am just going to enjoy it rather than analyze it to death. I will chalk it up to this heavenly environment that I find myself. I am currently laying in my hammock watching the kids splashing about in the river. Their laughing is accompanied by the clang of the cowbells. Twice a day, a herd of about forty of the healthiest looking (read: not fat nor skinny) cows I have ever seen, wander past my bungalow along the riverside. Many of them adorable tan color little calves tails swishing away contentedly. Sometimes some lost straggler will come barreling past to catch up with the others. The loud chime around its neck ding a ling a linging away frantically. Now that’s what I call more cowbell!

Yesterday I was walking down the river and got caught in the middle them so reached my hand out to pet one of the babies. There was no fear or trepidation from the creature, just a curious look right into my eyes. I understand that not only the cats and dogs are happier here but so are the cows and chickens. The animals I have seen so far in Laos seem to be more “natural.”

Today, I fed Black Cat some coconut milk which she lapped up greedily. Together we cuddled in my hammock watching the butterflies land from flower to flower. I have been watching the army of ants parade up and down the big tree beside my balcony for hours. Its amazing how polite and organized they are in efforts to complete their operation, whatever that may be today. I still can’t figure out what they are doing. It’s quite the mission, that’s for sure.

I haven’t tried the tubing or any of the adventure activities yet. I am supposing I may be too old for the tubing (bum immersed in cold water for three hours) but that maybe could get away with kayaking down the river. The bobbing around in the authentic tractor inner tube or paddling the more sophisticated kayak? Revisit my indulgent youth or celebrate my maturity gracefully? A growing awareness of my impending birthday doesn’t help the decision making process, that’s for sure.

Grateful for simplicity.

Meow Laos - Vang Vieng, Laos

I never did shake the disturbance in my spirit after watching that cat die. I did everything I could to bring me out of my funk. I went for yummy coffee and wrote for a while perched in the local bakery. I had a great two hour Lao massage which I learned is mostly just pressing rather than the more painful Thai pretzel maneuvers. I went for a tasty healthful Lao meal of fish laap with my friends who tried to cheer me up with gifts. I even played with the street kitties though I admit I was slightly hurt when they turned their noses up at the ball of sticky rice I so kindly offered them.

When a couple of young local girls rode by on a pink bike trailing behind them a hundred balloons, my inner child completely took over. They heard (as did everyone else in a 20 mile radius) me squeal with delight and promptly made a wide U turn back towards me. How the little 10 year old could double her sister and cart around such a wide load without losing one balloon and/or her balance, I will never know. I couldn’t resist the businesslike and very convincing sales pitch of these two little beauties. They took their job quite seriously and I admired their work ethic. After helping me carefully sort through the crowd of SpiderMan, Transformers, Minnie Mouse and other cutesy cartoons paid them 10,000 kip (about a dollar) for a Hello Kitty.

I justified the frivolous purchase by dedicating the balloon to the kitty that died that morning. I solemnly covered my heart with my hand and looked up to the sky honoring the little life that was lost. I know it sounds silly but somehow it made the heaviness feel better. Alana and I giggled as we took turns carrying the bouncy ball of floaty joy reliving a flash of childhood. Who *doesn’t* love carrying a balloon around?

Needless to say, although yesterday ended better than it started, I still felt it was time to move on this morning. After waking way too early, I purchased the 40,000 kip ticket from the tour company across the street from my hotel. I puttered around on the internet while I waited in the lobby for my supposed VIP transportation. A couple hours later, I was herded onto a large coach along with 40 or so others. There were not enough seats for everyone so they placed plastic lawn chairs in the aisle near the front and motioned for the last few to sit down. I was amused in a shocked kind of way.

A little over three hours later, we rolled into the small getaway of Vang Vieng. Most known for its bizarre tubing experience that attracts young crazy backpackers from far and wide, I was a little leery. But the breathtaking nature that surrounds this town is not to be missed. I was completely blissed out as watched the sun sparkle off the river then melt down into karst peaks. I munched on some fresh spring rolls (15,000 kip) while I sipped my orange/carrot shake (5000 kip) which was surprisingly more than enough to satiate me.

After taking the very long way around, I finally found the accommodation that my friend Lisa recommended me. Molina Bungalows were just as she described and for just 50,000 kip I have a new home for the night. They are far enough away from the racket that the drunken revelers kick up yet close enough to partake in the array vittles of offer at any number establishments. I knew the deal was sealed when a jet black brand new kitten wobbled over to me as the owner was writing me in the register. The tiny furry face peered up at me and slowly blinked her somewhat crossed eyes as if trying to focus. If a cat ever needed glasses, it was this one. I scooped her up excitedly and asked her name.

“Her name is Black Cat,” stated Mr. Phet very matter of factly.

“Well…can I take her to my house?” I inquired hopefully snuggling the ball of fur as she started purring loudly.

“Obviously,” he replied with a warm smile and a laugh.

Grateful for cats and kittens.

Cooking Thai and Travel Into Laos - Vientiane, Laos

The Sunday market on Walking Street in Chiang Mai did turn out to be massive and I got entirely overwhelmed by it all. But again, I managed to spend baht only on food and services rather than useless souvenirs I will regret later. I tasted a bunch of different flavors from the hundreds of choices including 10 baht pad thai (just ok) and 20 baht passion fruit/apple/watermelon smoothie (yummy time!) and 1 baht coconut pumpkin sticky rice in banana leaves (drool). By the end of night I felt I earned a serious massage having navigated the shoulder to shoulder packed crowds. For 120 baht I got a nice hour long massage in one of the rows of recliners set up.

The next day, I took a cooking class at “Asia Scenic” which included an educational field trip to the food market. Gay, our young bubbly teacher, took us into her garden and told us about all the spices and herbs she grew there. Our group of 10 young traveler all chose different dishes so we got to learn almost the entire spectrum on offer. My selections included spring rolls, pad see uw, coconut milk soup, massaman curry, deep fried banana and what turned out to be my favorite, chicken with cashew nuts. The whole day was exciting and I thoroughly enjoyed not only preparing my dishes but eating them too. Everything turned out perfectly and I couldn’t believe that I was responsible for creating such flavorful fare with such little effort. I am really looking forward to cooking these again in my own kitchen for future dinner parties.

The next day, I decided to head over to Laos for a spell as my Thai visa was about to run out. A small group of us (some friends I had met down in Koh Phangan) climbed aboard the night bus for the 12 hour journey. Unfortunately for me, I was seated in the top very back by the window which I believe was the coldest place on the bus. I watched “Where the Wild Things Are” on the laptop before trying unsuccessfully to contort myself into a decent sleeping position.

In the morning, we were dropped off at the bus station where we got a tuk tuk to take us the 10 minutes to the Thai-Laos border. After getting stamped out of Thailand, we got on a shuttle which carted us over the “Friendship Bridge” over the Mekong River. I paid the $42 dollars for a visa (Canadians have to pay substantially more than any other country for a Laos visa) and happily walked on into a new country.

We were all pretty exhausted and I was really looking forward to getting some rest in Vientiane. I would have gladly overpaid for a bed to sleep in but the others I was with were hell bent on finding a good deal. After scoping out a dozen guesthouses and hotels, we finally found one we could all agree on which happened to have a great view of the river. We grabbed a quick bite at the Joma bakery before I packed it in for the night. I zoned out a bit in front of the TV which was showing some awful Ben Stiller movie before passing out.

It’s a new day now and I am back at the Joma café as I write this. I am feeling a little sad because this morning I watched a cat get hit and killed by a car. I didn’t cry but I felt really really empty and cold as I watched her body twitch and convulse as her spirit left her. I said a little prayer for the dead cat as a local walked over casually picking her up by her tail and flinging her off the road. I hope I never get so numb to death.

I am going to go for a wander in this very French influenced town and look for a place to get a massage. Its certainly much more European here than I expected and the place is chockablock with tourists. It is a interesting fusion of French Asian but still, I am very well aware of the basic quality of life here.

Grateful for affect.

It’s beginning to feel NOT like Christmas, Koh Phangan - Thailand

A few weeks ago I was asked to housesit for Sam while she went back to England for the holidays. It was a wonderful move for me because her charming home is situated on a very secluded beach. Although it is about half the size of where I was living, the quietude and simplicity is well worth the trade.

I am taking care of her two dogs who don’t love my cat and keep chasing her up the tree. Luckily my lovely neighbors whom I have become quite fond of keep helping me rescue her. Its quite cute when Naema is wobbling around on Andreas’ shoulders coaxing down my frightened feline.

I guess I should be grateful that natural predators are her biggest worry now that I have moved away from the main road. There are a lot of crippled animals on this little island and a serious stray dog problem. Today I watched a pregnant dog die after being hit by a motorbike. I tried to console my laundry lady who was quite upset about losing her dog. I wanted to tell her it was probably for the best but I am sure the sentiment would have gotten lost in translation. I opted to go the actions speak louder than words route and bought her flowers instead.

Everyone on my beach is in a silent retreat for a couple weeks so there is not a lot of opportunity for chitchat. There may be a chance that I am spending too much time alone. I have begun feeling a bit isolated and lonely. It really hit me hard on Xmas day when for the first time in my life, I missed the snow. I spent the morning feeling sorry for myself until I decided to make some presents for my silent neighbors.

Here on Koh Phangan Christmas is not a big deal and other than a few token Happy Holiday signs near the touristy restaurants, the holidays may pass you by completely. You can imagine how glad when Gaby from Argentina arrived on the island. Having only met online, I was a tad timid with my not so wonderful track record with Argentines. But I reasoned that as two single woman travelers, we should stick together. It took about 5 seconds after I climbed into the taxi with her to realize that Gabriella and Carmella are like two peas in a pod.

We adventured down to Haad Rin for their version of an Xmas party. It turned out to be identical to a typical Full Moon party with hundreds of wannabe Santas running around. I had a chuckle at just how “merry” some of my counterparts were and ended up gifting my hat (which had been gifted to me earlier that day at the internet café) to one of them. Gaby, who has a penchant for Aussies, had her first FMP romance with the lucky recipient. The two of them looked adorable in their matching hats so I wasn’t so sad to have lost my playmate. I found some new friends and even spun some fire before packing it in for an early (3am) night.

Grateful for Christmas spirit.

Getting Dirty to get Clean - Nha Trang, Vietnam

After eating a quick breakfast, a group of us met in the coffee bar to tender ashore to Nha Trang, Vietnam. I wasn’t sure what to expect as I had not done even the least bit of research. All I knew is that for currency they use the “dong” and I only knew that because it was a question of the day for the Breakfast Show. Apparently the dong is not a very strong currency so most shops and vendors prefer the almighty US dollar to their own dong.

Instantly, I was impressed by the blast of humid warm air as I stepped off the ship. I looked around and noticed that there were lots of small green mountains. I was delighted that it was so pretty and there was lots of nature to be had.

We took a shuttle to Dam Market which was in the middle of this small beach/fishing town. It was cluttered and busy in every way. There were some areas with very strong fishy smells which we moved away from pretty quickly. I also saw some snakes in bottles of drink and wondered if this was their version of the worm in the tequila.

Nha Trang is poorer than most of the other ports we’d been to which also means that the prices are lower. I found some beautiful Asian dresses to buy and got them for under ten dollars each. They were Vietnamese style and looked elegant and fun to wear. I was excited to wear them because along with being beautiful, they were extremely comfortable. Infact, people weren’t sure if they were supposed to be pajamas or not.

Next we took a taxi to the mud baths where we signed up for the full meal deal. How could we not when it was under 15 dollars for several hours of healing? First we had a cleansing shower then we were directed to a big tub which they began filling with the mineral mud. The mud was thick and goopy and warm. I have to admit that it was a really neat feeling glurping around in a tub of mucky goodness.

We were given buckets to make sure we were completely covered and smothered. I was happy to have a waterproof camera to capture the messy silliness. It was so much fun that I had to keep reminding myself it was good for me too. In fact, there was a moment we were gently hushed because we were laughing too loud. Opps! We tried to find the sacred spirituality of the ritual stifling our giggles as best we could.

After 15 minutes of soaking in the mineral mud, we were directed to rinse off all mud. I was pretty surprised at some of the places I was finding the gritty sludge. Just to be sure we got every last speck, we entered the high pressure spray. Think car wash but for people. I did run through the car wash once and can attest that it is a lot nicer when its people size. Next we soaked for a half hour in a warm mineral bath before heading to the big swimming pool and waterfall.

After our swim, it was time to get our 6 dollar massage. The room was small and narrow and dimly lit. I asked the thin Vietnamese girl who was assigned to me to turn off the fans that were aimed at the massage table. I am a rarity, I know, because she looked a little puzzled when I tried to explain that I was cold. She shrugged and did as I asked then proceeded to knead away. At one point, it was like her hands changed completely and I wondered what new technique this was. Then, I realized that she was actually walking on my back! It was the first time I had that and I couldn’t help but be scared that she was going to fall off. It was a neat experience indeed.

Afterwards, we all grabbed a drink at a café we saw that looked decent. I had a coconut, top chopped off and a straw stuck in it. The sweet coconut water was refreshing and sweet. I left the others to head across the street to a small beauty salon that didn‘t look like it had seen a customer all day. I tried to communicate with the young ladies that I wanted a manicure and pedicure. After a few minutes, they got to work, one on my hands and one on my feet. They did a great job so I paid them double. Considering the whole treatment cost only 3 it was small change for me but it seemed to mean a lot to them.

The others picked me up just as I was finishing and we walked down to the beach area. I didn’t want to go in the sand because of my fresh pedicure so I stood on the boardwalk while the others stuck their feet in the sea. We all took a cab back to the tender port and finally got back to the ship.

I ended up feeling a little impatient and cranky that night and no matter where I went, I couldn’t shake it. After trying several venues and shows, I just went to bed and hoped to sleep it off. I reasoned that it may be all those toxins coming out from the mud baths. Who can say for sure. All I know is that I sure did sleep well.

Grateful for mud baths.

Cabin Fever - Sea Day

I decided to get room service to start my day off in a lazy way. No longer feeling the urge to battle it out for the treadmills in the morning. I have been leaving my workouts to the afternoon which means I don’t have that high to run me through the day. Instead I make a visit to the coffee bar for a buzz. After all, I have lots of punches left on my coffee card and Megan left me hers too! I decided I had better start drinking them up.

I wrote a letter to my mom and visited with some friends from the gym who said they’d missed me. I also met another older couple who were interested in my adventure. Needless to say, I have gotten a little behind in my writing because of all this visiting that is going on. I decided I had better get better at being anti-social if I wanted to get anything done. I guess my focus has been lacking. I wonder if that has anything to do with the fact that I have been on a ship for a month.

After lunch, I wandered around aimlessly until I got inspired to get my butt to the gym. I had dinner then went to the captains party. Its always a bit of a gong show when the Captain is paying for the drinks. People seem to go a little hog wild and the energy becomes something like a Frat party. I ended up going to see Martin sing for a while. While he was belting out the tunes, I got inspired to do a little singing myself. Oh yes…It was Karaoke Mania once again! I was determined not to mess it up this time. I ended up sing Stand By Me with flair and received many compliments afterwards. I wondered if they we privy to my previous blunder and thought I had been practicing like mad.

My favorite show, Ports of Call, was on again so I went to enjoy it for the last time. It was good but I got bored and left before it was finished. My attention span is not very good these days. There was an Island Party up on the top deck so I paid it a visit. The buffet was the best I had all cruise and I admit, I kinda overdid it. I went to bed with a bit of a tummy ache and had a stern chat with my self control who clearly decided to take the night off. No more holidays for you!!

Grateful for singing.

Sea day in the South China Sea

This morning I woke up and skipped the gym to watch the cooking show. I was disappointed to learn that they changed the scheduled one and were doing the one I had already watched so I left. I found my way to the coffee bar instead where I ran in to a bunch of familiar faces. I am finding that this is not the best place for me to write anymore because everyone seems to want to talk all the time.

Next I watched the auction in the atrium which they were putting on to help those in distress in the Philippines. A lot of the crew onboard are from there and have family or friends who have been affected by the recent typhoons. I often wonder if the landslides, tsunamis, and earthquakes that have been so rampant in this area of the world lately will strike while I am here. I wonder but I don’t worry.

After lunch, I spent a couple hours in the coffee bar chatting with Megan who is leaving the ship soon. We took a break from our girl talk and slipped into the Arts and Crafts session next door in Savoy. We walked out with some handsome bookmarks with travel themes. I was quite impressed with my creativity.

After grabbing a bite in the buffet upstairs, I popped up to the gym for a spell. It was dead mostly because I think it was formal night again. I wandered down to visit Martin in Crooners where he sang “Stand by Me” as per my request. I stopped in to visit JT as he was hosting a Michael Jackson Tribute night. I listened to Billy Jean and had a chuckle as the oldies tore up the dance floor. It was the busiest I had ever seen it up there! I guess old MJ still lives strong in everyone’s heart, young and old.

Grateful for tributes.

Dream Day Dream - East China Sea Day

I slept in for the first time in a long time which surprised me. I suppose my dreams are becoming more active which wakes me less rested. I ate then worked out before meeting up with some friends for lunch. We reviewed some health facts and figures then enjoyed the elaborate dessert buffet. I found my old card playing friends who invited me for a few rounds. I didn’t win but I didn’t lose.

I went through the Japanese Immigration process once again before making an appointment with the fitness dude. We talked a lot about different strategies I could use to balance out my system. I admit I sure did feel a lot better on leaving that meeting. I realized after seeing the stats from the electronic health scan that I am not in as bad of shape as I thought. Infact, most of the facts and knowledge that he shared, I had already learned. It’s just a matter of putting it into practice. Besides all that, its nice to have encouragement even when you are on the right track.

After eating dinner, I made my way to the main attraction for the night. Martin, my favorite entertainer of late, was making his debut in the Princess Theatre so I went to support. I nestled in front and center between Megan and Marshan. We all clapped loudly in appreciation as Martin tickled the ivories with his tribute to Elton John. Not a huge EJ fan but I still quite enjoyed the show, especially when he played his rendition of “Your Song”.

I tumbled into bed with music in my head. It was a good day.

Grateful for authenticity.