WhereSheGoes

Impromptu Birthday Party with Random Strangers - Luang Prabang, Laos

I was tickled pink to have made her acquaintance because Melbourne native Jules and I seemed to be cut from the same fabric. Initially, we were going to rent motorbikes and ride their ourselves but we were accosted by a boatman. He convinced us that it would be much more fun and cost efficient to let him take us there. After some gentle negotiation, we agreed to his offer. When we crawled into the long wooden boat, we were greeted by a five-some of young and beautiful Brits.

We made our introductions and learned that we all led quite interesting lives. I shared my cherimoyas with the group as we cruised down the Mekong River admiring the landscapes. A couple of them climbed onto the roof while a few others documented our adventure with their cameras. As we visited and got to know my new mates, I congratulated myself on having conjuring up such a fascinating group to hang out with for my special day.

After about an hour on the boat, we transferred to a tuk tuk (really just the back of a pickup truck) for the remaining 15 minutes. The cheeky driver made a quick stop at what looked like his families house and brought out some moonshine. After passing it around and the boys partaking, I was glad to have declined. After only two sips their eyes seemed to go bloodshot! What was in that stuff?

We finally arrived to the waterfalls and I was pleasantly surprised that it wasn’t overrun with tourists. Don’t get me wrong, the infrastructure is certainly there but we must have chosen a slower day or at least hit a lull. We visited the Bear Sanctuary and watched the roly-poly bundles of black fur search out their lunch. The keepers had hidden pieces of fruit all over the compound in some of the strangest places but the bears were privy to all of them.

After having our fill of the animals, we headed on to the waterfalls. We were all astonished at the surreal glowing turquoise pool and it didn’t take us long before we all stripped down to our swimwear. The water was a tad chilly but after about 2 minutes, it was fine. We splashed about and watched the dragon flies flutter around us. We marveled at the giant tree anchored right in the middle of the pool whose mystical roots looked like they may come alive at any minute. All of us agreed that this was the stuff of what fairytales were made of.

A short time later, we ventured up the trail and lo and behold, there were more falls…and more and MORE! Until finally, we hit the big one. It took my breath away and I couldn’t stop grinning at my fortune to have *this* as my birthday setting. Looking way way up you could see water cascading over dozens of cliff stages finally traveling all the way down to us. I just stared in awe at the giant spout as it crashed down over the mossy rocks into a frothy cloud entering the pool below.

With a little encouragement, we climbed up all the way to the top, walked across, and came down the other side. It was an arduous climb but worth it in the end. And I reasoned that this would earn me a piece of birthday cake without guilt.

At the end of the day, we all met up for dinner at the 8000 kip (about 1 dollar) vegetarian buffet. The meal was delightful, with birthday song, cake, presents, and all. It was grand and I felt really lucky to have been blessed with such a memorable surprise birthday party.

Grateful for surprises.

A Blast from the Past - Luang Prabang, Laos

I ended up finding a cute guesthouse that was just built and though it would normally be out of my price range, I splurged. I decided since it would be my birthday tomorrow, I had better enjoy it. One of the many presents I was planning on giving myself.

I wandered around town and noticed it was quite small. I liked all the activity and the market stalls that were spouting up all over the place. It seems that at night, this place comes alive. I went for a massage and ended up giving the girl at the front desk my lip gloss. She was so enamored by it and explained to me that they cannot get such things here. I wondered how different it would be to live in a culture that so values modesty. The petite young lady wistfully revealed her secret wishes to wear short skirts and makeup. She explained that Australians and Canadians were well known for our sense of style. Really?

I wandered home that night through the quiet streets and realized that this town seems to be stuck in another era. Sure there are cars and electricity but the attitude seems to be from a simpler time. I think I would trust the honor system here more so than most other places I’ve been. I tested it a few times when I had to promise to come back and pay later having run out of Kip (the local currency). Every single time they just smiled with eyes brimming trust, nodding their heads with understanding. They didn’t even want me to leave anything for insurance. My Word was sufficient.

I meandered down the main street which turns into a huge market at night. The atmosphere was subdued yet delightful and children were visible at every other stall. I admired the colorful handmade wares and their impressive attention to detail. After having asked a few prices, I was sure I would not be escaping Luang Prabang without a few reminders of my time here.

Grateful for honor.

Lucid Tubing - Vang Vieng, Laos

I really enjoyed Vang Vieng but when it was time to go, it was really time to go. I did end up doing the tubing but didn’t partake in the party aspect of the experience. It wasn’t a hard decision to make especially after I arrived at the scene. A picture of gross debauchery, I was happy to keep my head about me among the stupidly drunk (sometimes downright dangerous) westerners. I think I may be one of the few people who actually make it back to town in their tube. Most, as far as I can tell, have to be taxied back in droves from the riverside bars at the end of the day. Many barely able to stand up safely, much less float down the river for hours in their inner tube.

I really enjoyed the ride although by the end three hours later, I’ll admit I was eager to reach the shore. I certainly appreciated the stretches of river I covered with no one else in sight. No kayakers, no tubers, no motor boats, no swimmers. Just me and the birds. I admired the nature which included some little goats grazing in the tall grassy banks. A little local boy playing solo in the trees yelled and waved at me excitedly. The water was not as cold as I thought it would be and the sun kept me warm. I used my new fake (they just CAN’T be genuine for only two dollars) Croc flip flips as paddles to get me to town before the sun hit the tops of the rounded limestone tree covered peaks.

When I finally pulled in, I was pretty proud of myself for making it the whole way. I forced down some of the worst Laap ever made while watching the sunset over the clouds of smoke. They were burning the grass across the river and it made for quite an interesting show. I was glad the wind was blowing away from me but the smell of burnt grass was still quite overwhelming. I turned in for a relatively early night in preparation for the long bus ride up the country I would be embarking on.

Grateful for safety first.

Trillions of Trinkets at the Night Bazaar - Chiang Mai, Thailand

Early in the evening I made my way down the street to the infamous Chiang Mai Night Bazaar. I had heard about this place and since I love markets, it seemed like a obvious excursion. Little did I know that just two blocks away from my newfound home, was the market to end all markets. I was floored to say the least. The amount of stalls, stores, booths, and vendors was staggering. It just kept going and going and going…I was there for a good 3 hours walking at quite a clip and I am sure I still didn’t see it all.

Selling everything from kitschy t-shirts to hand stitched bags to massages of whatever body part is sore to pointy hats to glowing lanterns and crafted umbrellas to intricate jewelry to Italian gelato (I had coconut and amaretto) to creative expressions of bugs/dragons/motorcyles portrayed by rope/used cans/wood/leaves/you name it to eco-friendly stationary to scarves of every color of the rainbow and every texture under the moon to spices to sexy underwear to Muay boxing shorts to humongous murals painted on canvas being worked on by the artists who glance up every now and then with a gentle smile.

Even if I wanted to buy something, I would have been paralyzed by decision. It took my 6 tasters and 10 minutes just to choose an ice cream flavor! At one point, I just sat down overwhelmed by the vastness and perfection of it all. Each seller took great pride in their space arranging their wares neatly and symmetrically. Though many seems to be selling similar things there was always some variation in presentation.

And the prices! I don’t even want to go there. Lets just say that this place would test even the most staunch anti-consumerism advocate. Even I, who has been on a constant quest to live more simply (which in this moment means to lighten my backpack) found myself rationalizing how it was my duty to support the local economy. I had to shake myself when I began eying the suitcases and plotting how much STUFF I could cart home with me.

But I am happy to say that other than tasty treats, I did not buy anything. My strength of will prevailed and I came home empty handed. I relayed my excitement over having experienced such a fantastic market to the owner upon returning to the hotel. He seemed amused when I congratulated myself on showing such endurance at not succumbing to the peddlers.

“Ahhh Just wait, Little One! Tomorrow is Sunday,” the animated grey haired man pointed out knowingly.

“And? What does that mean?” I inquired with a curious frown noting silently that he was the littler one between the two of us.

“The Sunday market is much bigger and even more extravagant than the nightly bazaar. You shall see,” he promised with wink.

“Oh no!” I gasped only half joking. Perhaps I wouldn’t escape unscathed after all. I sighed with playful exasperation as I turned on my heel up to my cozy home for the night. Over stimulated and feet sore, I knew I had better get some rest if there was any way I was going to make it out to the main event.

Grateful for precise organization.

Bed hopping in Charming Chiang Mai, Thailand

I arrived in Chiang Mai which is just 700 km north of Bangkok a couple days ago but already, I feel a strong affinity with this place. I am not sure if it’s the people, the atmosphere or the scenery, but I feel a strong sense of calm laced with little flecks of delightfulness. Certainly a big change from the aggressive hustle and bustle of the smoggy metropolis that I just came from. Don’t get me wrong…there is place for everything. But this is the place for me right now.

Where the tallest spires of temples are not shrouded by modern skyscrapers and where the street trash is sorted into their respective recycle bins. Where the busiest streets are still tame enough to walk across rather than the run for your life speed one must adopt to navigate CM’s bloated big brother, Bangkok.

I am sitting on the 5th floor rooftop restaurant of my hotel having breakfast as a morning breeze caresses my cheeks. Although the sun is beating down on me unfettered by clouds, it’s not too hot but I can feel myself already getting a tan. Nine AM and the city hasn’t quite woken up yet. The occasional market goer plods on briskly to discover what’s on offer for today. The birds chirp merrily as I admire the stunning mountain backdrop which surround this quaint gem.

I am feeling much better now. I am still a little sick with my cold but I am convinced the worst is over. My heart and soul feel a lot better too though I am not sure what changed. Perhaps it was the couple days I dedicated to serious self care. When I first arrived I stayed in a 10 person dorm room of a cheap ($3/night at A Little Bird Guesthouse) but cheery hostel. This was great for socializing and getting tips from other travelers, but not very restful.

The next day I splurged on a highly rated hotel ($80/night Rimping Village) a bit further from the center. It was very quiet and comfortable but rather isolated in its remote little neighborhood. This can be easily remedied by taking the complementary bikes for a spin and I saw many families doing just that. As for me, I was determined to heal my sore lungs. The caring staff brought me limes and honey for my tea and I crawled into my king size bed. Tucked in snuggly into the fluffy duvet, I watched the DVDs that I borrowed from the front desk until I fell asleep.

The next day, I felt a little better though not quite out of the woods yet. I decided to find somewhere in the middle where I could be comfortable for a few days but not break the bank. I decided on a cute little boutique hotel called The Small ($30/night). I thanked the owner of Rimping Village who insisted on driving me and checked into my new home for the next three days.

As soon as I entered the lobby, I was impressed by the vibrant colors and bold design. The fun continued up into my room on the 5th floor which was adorned with a pink and bright orange color scheme. I loved the high ceilings and sharp lines agreeing with almost all the artists choices. I was fascinated by the open shower concept. With glass on three sides, one could lift the blinds and look into the sleeping area or out to the street to watch the city below. I decided this could be a entertaining feature for couples and exhibitionists especially.

I am delighted to have found this place and am contemplating extending my visit already. I thought about taking some cooking classes as this is one of the major activities this region is famous for, along with massage schools and spiritual pursuits. I get the feeling my plan of heading to Laos may be delayed some as there is so much to explore here first.

Grateful for changing skylines.

Things that make me happy Living in Ko Phangan

- Everything Coconut. It seems that everything here has this wonderful flavor not to mention the free coconuts that fall from the trees. Just have to be careful they don’t fall on your head. Death by coconut is a real danger here on this isle
- trapped butterflies who climb on my finger so I can release them outside
- baskets on scooters
- people who sing while they are zooming along on their scooter

- the daily fruit delivery lady on her bike
- geckos chirping and singing
- how easy it is to adopt a needy pet
- rolling blackouts
- sweet buttery fresh papaya
- beautiful Wats (temples) scattered through the island
- pad thai for 30 baht (1 dollar)
- fresh fruit smoothie for 20 baht
- watching the dog family who live next door raise their little puppy
- seeing random monks going for ice cream

- comfortable triangle pillow sitting things
- when the locals warned me to put on my helmet because the scooter police were around the corner
- the stars are so bright out here
- the amount of people that stop to take photos of my killer view
- naming my kitty the Thai word for pig which is pronounced Moo

Settling into Island Life - Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand

About three minutes after getting off the ferry, I was drenched. Damn its hot here! It didn’t help that I was sitting on a cement sidewalk outside the 7-11 trying to arrange for transportation. Finally I just gave into the persistent older Thai lady who offered “Taxi?” for the six hundredth time. I was glad of it when a brand new grey pickup truck showed up and whisked me off to the North of the island.

It only took about 20 minutes to get to Chalokum, a quaint fishing village I would stay in for the first two nights. The hotel Mandalai was modern and classy but something smelled fishy…literally. Now you know how much I love fishing and can tolerate the unpleasant odor that comes with it. But I discovered that just a few meters away from the hotel, hundreds of squid were laid out on racks to dry. It wasn’t a one time thing but actually a daily operation and we just happened to be downwind. I thought surely I would get used to it but I never did.

The tiny village was quaint and like stepping into Thailand, fifty years ago. I crossed paths with very few tourists and found the locals slightly timid. This certainly was no Bangkok. No vendors pressuring at me to buy their wares, no scantily clad lady boys parading around showing off their wares, and no reason in the world to feel I have to beware…this place felt super safe. No one was trying to rip me off and most were to shy even to meet my eyes.

I was pretty motivated to get a permanent residence sorted out so I contacted a real estate agent. I had found a few places I liked and we had arranged for viewings. Unfortunately, I forgot to factor in the fact that now I was on Island Time. This means that things get done in their own time and that appointments may or may not happen and if they do, it will never be on time. Ug.

Needless to say, after I calmed down and let things be, everything started to work out. I was super stoked to get the house that I had originally wanted which overlooks the sea. What is the point of moving to an island if you can’t see the water? I was tickled pink when the fully furnished house with its own beach was available for just the dates I needed. It was awesome when my agent no only helped me get a cell phone set up, but took me food shopping so I could stock my fridge.

I moved in and got relatively settled when it was time to head out to the south of the island where two big parties were taking place. The first festival was called Loy Krathong and was attended mostly by Thai locals. It was most certainly a family affair and it was a real honor to be able to participate. I bought my hand made “krathong” which was made from banana leaves, flowers, incense and candles.

The idea is that you release your small raft into the water and it symbolizes letting go of negativity so you can start life anew on a better foot. I pulled out some of my hair (didn’t have scissors) and bit off some fingernail which traditionally represent ones bad parts, to add to my offering to the Goddess of Water, Phra Mae Khongkha. It was a serene and wonderful experience to watch all the Krathongs floating out into the sea. Many were lighting Khom Fai, which are sky lanterns which made the night that much more magical.

Next I made my way 15 minutes south to a festival which was a little less peaceful. The renown Full Moon Party in Haad Rin beckoned my curiosity. I had made the decision to stay sober for the event and I imagined I would likely be the only one. I think I was right.

They now charge 100 baht to enter the massive beach party but I had an inside track so I didn’t have to pay the ridiculous fee. I still have no idea what that surcharge is for or who gets it. As I navigated the narrow alleyways towards the music, a man asked me if I wanted some florescent paint. I shrugged and agreed since he said there would be no charge. It couldn’t hurt right? Little did I know, he was the ONLY person offering the service for free.

Others along the beach were charging hundreds of baht for a few swipes of the black light reactive paint. I guess I lucked out. I was actually quite pleased with my orange and blue dragon which spanned my back shoulder spiraling down my arm. As I checked out other partygoers ink throughout the night, I realized that not all were so lucky to have had a real artist.

The whole night was pretty much a gong show from start to finish. I only lasted until 3am and can’t imagine having stayed a minute longer. You know that point when you know its time to go home but you stick around because you don’t want to miss anything? Well, lucky for me I wasn’t fueled by the deadly mix of redbull/coke/Thai Whiskey and therefore my judgment wasn’t clouded. I knew that the only thing I would be missing is a sharp decline in moral decency. I shuddered to imagine just how disgusting the water would be by sunrise with all the urine and vomit that the drunks were already depositing on a regular basis. It costs 10 baht to use a toilet and most would rather put that towards a 200 baht bucket of death.

On the upside, the music was awesome, the set ups were grand, and the intermittent fireworks just punctuated the high notes. I did get a little worried when I saw several flares skim across the ocean exploding on the surface. It was striking and something I had never seen before. Probably because it is so unbelievably dangerous. The backdrop was perfect for an incredible beach party and I could imagine how it had gained such a worldwide reputation. I wondered what it was like years ago before it was spoiled by the air of irresponsibility and blatant disregard for others.

A few people stepped on and fell into me but I remained unscathed. I certainly didn’t require the services of the several medical centers smartly situated in the thick of it all. Many tried to have inebriated conversations but it all came out sideways in a language unbeknownst to me. Something about this being the best, the best ever, oh my god, the best…then they would add something to the effect of “I have never been this wrecked in my life”. The high grade Red Bull originated in Thailand and is more concentrated than the versions you get elsewhere. Countless others tripped (sand is a challenge for some on the best of days and with all the rubbish strewn about it became something of an obstacle course) and spilled their buckets everywhere.

It was comical to watch one young lads face morph from shock to utter misery stopping only for a moment in between to commemorate his beloved concoction seeping into the sand. After tipping it to his mouth with no avail, triple checking that all was infact lost, he angrily flung the empty bucket into the ocean. He kicked the sand sullenly shoving his hands into his pockets and I almost felt sorry for him for a second. Just then, his face lit up as he pulled out a few soggy wadded up forgotten bills. It was as if he’d won the lottery as he clutched his money flashing me a look of pure unadulterated joy before sprinting to the nearest drink stand. Oddly entertaining yet disturbing all at the same time.

I was happy to bound up my spiral stone staircase and slide open my patio doors. I nibbled on some healthy green mango and sipped some warm lemongrass tea as I wound down from my day. I crawled into my soft bed draped with luxurious white netting and snuggled into my pillows. I had passed a personal challenge I had unknowingly set for myself. I stayed completely lucid in a very difficult environment which was a huge accomplishment for me. I reflected on just how far I had come over the past two years. I am making better choices now and it shows in my smile.

Though its only a 20 minute drive, the full moon festivities seemed galaxies away from my little slice of heaven. The ground shaking bass of the party was replaced by the gentle splash of the surf kissing the sand below my bedroom window. There were no fireworks and sky lanterns…only the heavy light of the full moon reflecting off the shimmering sea. And the chaotic energy that was my reality an hour ago has now turned to calm stillness.

Grateful for steadfastness.

The Final Countdown - Bangkok to Phuket to Samui to Phangan

I know I haven’t been writing lately. I guess a lot has happened so I will just try to give the short version. Because really, its all just a means to an end. All this (and by this I mean everything) was to get there. And now I am here.

After I got off the ship in Bangkok, I spent a couple days getting cheap massages (300 baht an hour or 400 for two hours) and seeing the sights. I really enjoyed the Tiger Sanctuary (350 baht) where I got to pet baby tigers, hug orangutans, and feed elephants. I stayed at the Landmark (75US a night) where I had free access to an amazing state of the art gym called Fitness First. I even tried a yoga class in Thai but much preferred the computerized TV treadmills.

The Grand Palace (350 baht), which I finally got to after several cabs refused me because I insisted we use the meter (150 baht), was breathtaking to say the least. It was almost too much and I felt overwhelmed. My favorite part was sitting in front of the Emerald Buddha while all the locals around me were praying and meditating. It was a heavy peace and I could have stayed there a lot longer than I did. As it were, I was with a free tour so I had to hurry along having already been left behind.

I enjoyed the food in Bangkok and the cheap shopping. I didn’t buy much except for a cute tee shirt (100 baht) and a long flowing skirt (220 baht). Truth be told, I was glad to get on the plane (1800 baht) to go south. I will head back to Bangkok to be sure, but for now it is beach time.

In Phuket, I first stayed in Kata at a place called Sawasdee Village (65US a night). It was charming and quite tranquil with the effort that they put into providing the right atmosphere. My favorite part was getting the three hour spa treatment (2500 baht) I had an entire room to myself and had one therapist dedicated to me.

I first had a steam and soak then proceeded to get a sesame body scrub. After being exfoliated, I was painted with a detoxifying clay mixture before being wrapped up in plastic. Next I got a honey mask on my face and just to make sure the ingredients were pure, I licked my lips. Yes, it was sweet honey indeed. Somewhere in all this pampering, I drifted off on a cloud of bliss. I think, I am not certain, but I may have been drooling. To ended it all, I had a relaxing massage with the aromatherapy oil I had pre selected when I had booked the treatment. The attention paid to the details such as the music being played to the refreshing teas and snacks really put this experience in a class of its own.

Next I ventured to the northern part of the island of Phuket to a hotel called Indigo Pearl (75US a night). The place was fascinating with the design inspired by tin mining. The grounds were huge and well maintained. The breakfast (included) here was the best I have ever had with quality ingredients and vast variety of every kind of fruit, pastry, and meat you could think of. I especially enjoyed the small but very comfortable gym facilities. I got to know the staff who helped me stretch out my knotted muscles and even taught me a bunch of Thai language. I can now count to ten confidently though I admit I still don’t understand the baaaaad sound of “eight”.

There was an Indian wedding taking place at the resort which I attended. Watching the groom make his entrance on the elephant which followed the traditional Thai dancers was worth the price of admission alone. I got to meet the elephant and his trainer who directed her to give me an elephant kiss. It was kinda messy. The best had to be the fantastic fireworks display which exploded right over our heads.

A 5 minute ride to the airport (a flat rate rip off of 150 baht) and I was on a plane (1500 baht) to Ko Samui, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. I took the shuttle straight to the ferry (300 baht) and 30 minutes later I was on the even smaller island of Ko Phangan.

THIS is where I have spent the last two months getting to. My final destination.

Grateful for getting here.

Market to Market - Hong Kong

I woke up early to get a kick start on the day and compose myself after having stayed up oh so late (or shall I say early). Megan was leaving the ship today so we had breakfast together and said our goodbyes. Just like a sister would, she gave me a bunch of clothes that she couldn’t fit into her luggage. I was excited that it all fit me perfectly. I will miss our heart to hearts in the atrium bar sipping lattes. I was sad to see her go but knew she was going to be happy starting her new life in Italy.

Marshan and I picked up our tender tickets to go ashore then waited to be called. We decided we would spend the day at the markets and first up was the famous Stanley Market. We found an express bus that got us there in about 20 minutes. I was charmed by the quaint line up of shops and stalls selling every kind of souvenir you could imagine. The nice thing about it was how neat and tidy everything was. The atmosphere was subdued and people were quite calm and orderly. It was a big change from the ladies market I saw yesterday and that we would be visiting again later.

I ended up buying a silk scarf that I couldn’t get my eyes off of for a measly 10 Hong Kong Dollars. Then we boarded the bus again which happened to be a double decker this time. Ofcourse we sat on the top deck which even had a TV playing commercials and such. It was a scenic ride and somewhat exciting as well as the driver twisted and turned the narrow snaky roads. Something of a rollercoaster ride and we didn’t even have to pay extra!

We transferred to the subway and fifteen minutes later we were standing in the middle of consumer chaos. Marshan hadn’t been here yet so I showed her around and pointed out the pretty hair clips I intended to buy. You would think with a billion to choose from, I could find something I liked! But perhaps it was that there were too many choices. I watched as the young ladies would work carefully with tweezers to dazzle accessories with sparkly crystals creating exquisite elegance.

Finally I found the one I wanted and it was just a matter of agreeing on a price. I suppose I shouldn’t have shown such interest because the shopgirl was playing hardball and wanted 70 but had seen others pay only 30 (4 USD). I went back three times before at last we negotiated a deal. In the end, I walked away with three including the one I would gift to Marshan.

As I walked away with my win silently congratulating myself on saving at least 100 HKD by being a good bargainer, I stopped short. Right in front of me was a man who had no legs pulling himself on a makeshift skateboard in the middle of the thoroughfare. He had a small change basket he would humbly lift and move with him each time he would advance a few feet with his hands pushing himself along like a monkey. I reached into my pockets and gave the man my money without even thinking.

Now normally I don’t give to beggars because I don’t think it helps their cause to reward that type of behavior. I adhere to a strict policy to only give if they provide me a service or touch me in some way. So you can imagine my confusion as I walked away why I made an exception this time. What I determined was that this man was infact doing something. He was moving. And to do just that it took all he had. Just traveling a few meters was a real exertion for him and to see him trying so hard and not giving up…well, that moved me. His strength of will was a gift of gratitude for all that I take for granted.

It started to rain and there were still a few hours left before we had to get back to the ship. Feeling extra grateful for my feet, I decided to get some reflexology. I admit, the service wasn’t exceptional but I don’t think it mattered at that point. It only cost 100 HKD which is about $15 so it wasn’t a huge loss. I did however decide that I would be more choosy about treatments from that point on.

We exchanged the last of our money and caught the last tender back to the ship. I ate a snack then had a nap before heading to see Martin. After listening to him croon for a while, I stopped into to see JT before heading off to bed.

Grateful for mobility.

Skyscrapers, Ferries, and Markets, Oh My! - Hong Kong

I was looking forward to meeting up with Barrett who has been living in Hong Kong for almost a year now. We met years ago and felt super lucky to have him show me around his new city. After breakfast, I hopped on the shuttle which took me from the container port to the cruise ship terminal. I was impressed that the upscale hotel called Barrett’s cell phone for me when I couldn’t find him. Turns out there were three Marco Polo hotels in the same vicinity.

Finally we connected and wandered out to the Tsim Sha Tsue Star Ferry Peir where I got my bearings. I was impressed to say the least at the spectacularly laid out Victoria Harbor. It was easy to see why it is ranked with Rio de Janerio, San Francisco, and Sydney as one of the worlds most beautiful harbors. The city skyline boasts a multitude of modern architectural feats which, as far as aesthetics go, make this my favorite cosmopolitan city so far.

We jumped on the ferry which is equivalent to 33 cents across the water from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island. It took about 5 minutes and is only one of the many forms of transport here. There is also a subway that goes under the harbor and covers much of the area, including a stop marked on the map by Mickey Mouse ears. Yes you guess it, Disneyland but I didn’t get there.

Barrett taught me about the intricate web of pedways connecting all the streets that kept people safe from having to cross the roadways. There is even the longest escalator in the world here! As he pointed a meeting spot for us on the map, a butterfly the size of my hand fluttered through my hair and landed on the page. That’s when I knew it was going to be a good day.

I wandered around the shops for a while and got a feel for the hustle and bustle going on all around me. While I was waiting for Barrett at the specified spot, I witnessed two Western tourists picking up a scantily clad prostitute in broad day light. I know I should get ready for this because I am, after all, going to Bangkok where this kind of stuff is rampant. Still, this kind of transaction is something that I can’t help but see as a bit of a spectacle.

I was ogling the old meets new which I encountered around every corner. It was just fantastic to experience such extremes coinciding next door to each other. Glassy slick business towers jutting high into the sky with a dank dirty antique looking shanty housing who know what kind of nastiness inside. The contrast was surreal and gave me an idea of just how far this culture spans in time.

Barrett and I hopped on a tram after I purchased an Octopus Card which is like a transportation debit card. One swipe to use the train, tram, bus, subway, or ferry rather than having to fumble around with change. Handy indeed! Wide eyed with envy and wonder, I complimented my friend on his choice of a place to call home. So far I was well impressed and I hadn’t even had the dim sum yet.

We ordered bbq steamed buns, shrimp dumplings, and a few other delectable favorites. I thought the quality was miles ahead of anything I had tasted at home. It seemed fresher and the service more professional. My favorite was a purple taro roll filled with mango rolled in coconut that we had for dessert. My mouth waters even as I type these words. Thanks to Barrett for letting me have the last piece. J

I parted ways with B in Times Square then wandered around before heading into one of the many choices for massage. I was a little leary as I had heard stories of places that used prostitutes rather than professionals. I suppose the place I ended up at was decent but I wouldn’t return. What is it with the Chinese massage people hitting all the time! I am going to be black and blue by the time I leave this country.

I took the train to the Ladies Market which is made of colorful stalls with everything from umbrellas to scarves to socks to hair accessories to dresses to shoes to well…you name it. And here is a place to hone your bargaining skills. Barrett told me the rule of thumb is to start with 10 percent of their asking price. I ended up with a dress for 80 Hong Kong Dollars (10 bucks) which was originally 250. I thought I did ok and besides, I needed a dress to wear that night.

When I realized that it was 445pm and that I only had a quarter of an hour to get back to the last shuttle, I put it in to high gear. I ran through the streets and through the mall finally ending up on the bus huffing and puffing and dripping sweat. I was so grateful to have made it but it was all for naught as he didn’t leave for another 15 mins anyway. Ug.

Back on the ship I watched the folkloric show which boasted more ultra flexible gymnastics and even a charming magician. Where he pulled those twenty umbrellas out of, I will never know. The little girls were a lot more impressive than the last show too and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Afterward I had eaten snack, I made my way up to the top deck to wait for the nightly light show that the city puts on. This night, our ship would cross right past the “main stage” and actually be part of the show. I was dazzled by the magnificent city skyline lit up. This is a classy city indeed. But to be honest, I thought the actual light performance (which was set to music as well) was a little dull. I suppose I am comparing it to fireworks which are much more exciting. Most of us didn’t even know it was actually happening until it was almost over. Anticlimactic to say the least.

Next a group of us jumped on a tender which shuttled us to the Ferry Terminal. We were now anchored out in the harbor overnight so we had to spent 45 mins getting to and from the ship. We met up with Barrett who took us to his favorite haunts in the trendy pub/bar section of the city. It was fab to have our own personal guide who told us all the neat insider info.

There was lots of fun to be had and we explored many nooks and crannies of this hip and happening neighborhood. We grabbed beers from the 7-11 and surveyed the area before committing to any one bar. We got to don big furry coats and drink shots of ice cold volka in an ice bar. We met the Canadian who owned the bar called Cul De Sac and finally ended up in the bar that most of the ship crew were dancing in.

Finally we ended up taking a cab back to the ship when I ran in to Peter, the cruise director. Finally! It was lucky too because he was leaving on a plane early in the morning to go back to England. He was finished his contract and was taking a holiday. I was grateful to be able to thank him personally for being such a happy part of my cruise experience.

I hugged Barrett goodbye and chatted with some of the crew who were on the tender. Matt and I gabbed over late night snacks in the buffet area until dawn. I finally tumbled into bed and promptly fell asleep for a couple hours before I would have to wake to pack in more sightseeing. Phew!

Grateful for ex pats.