We made our introductions and learned that we all led quite interesting lives. I shared my cherimoyas with the group as we cruised down the Mekong River admiring the landscapes. A couple of them climbed onto the roof while a few others documented our adventure with their cameras. As we visited and got to know my new mates, I congratulated myself on having conjuring up such a fascinating group to hang out with for my special day.

After about an hour on the boat, we transferred to a tuk tuk (really just the back of a pickup truck) for the remaining 15 minutes. The cheeky driver made a quick stop at what looked like his families house and brought out some moonshine. After passing it around and the boys partaking, I was glad to have declined. After only two sips their eyes seemed to go bloodshot! What was in that stuff?

We finally arrived to the waterfalls and I was pleasantly surprised that it wasn’t overrun with tourists. Don’t get me wrong, the infrastructure is certainly there but we must have chosen a slower day or at least hit a lull. We visited the Bear Sanctuary and watched the roly-poly bundles of black fur search out their lunch. The keepers had hidden pieces of fruit all over the compound in some of the strangest places but the bears were privy to all of them.

After having our fill of the animals, we headed on to the waterfalls. We were all astonished at the surreal glowing turquoise pool and it didn’t take us long before we all stripped down to our swimwear. The water was a tad chilly but after about 2 minutes, it was fine. We splashed about and watched the dragon flies flutter around us. We marveled at the giant tree anchored right in the middle of the pool whose mystical roots looked like they may come alive at any minute. All of us agreed that this was the stuff of what fairytales were made of.

A short time later, we ventured up the trail and lo and behold, there were more falls…and more and MORE! Until finally, we hit the big one. It took my breath away and I couldn’t stop grinning at my fortune to have *this* as my birthday setting. Looking way way up you could see water cascading over dozens of cliff stages finally traveling all the way down to us. I just stared in awe at the giant spout as it crashed down over the mossy rocks into a frothy cloud entering the pool below.

With a little encouragement, we climbed up all the way to the top, walked across, and came down the other side. It was an arduous climb but worth it in the end. And I reasoned that this would earn me a piece of birthday cake without guilt.

At the end of the day, we all met up for dinner at the 8000 kip (about 1 dollar) vegetarian buffet. The meal was delightful, with birthday song, cake, presents, and all. It was grand and I felt really lucky to have been blessed with such a memorable surprise birthday party.

Grateful for surprises.

I happened upon a pile of cherimoyas and bought myself a birthday trio. Then I got lost in some charming narrow side streets which were filled with guesthouses. I decided upon a place for breakfast and was elated when they served me my first Lao coffee of the day. It was divine.

Lao coffee is really something else, in my humble opinion. I have heard that most of the countries in South East Asia battle for this title of best coffee. I often wonder if it is because the popular alternative is the Nescafe instant granules. After having that a few times, if you are served a proper cuppa joe, no matter where you are its bound to be the “best you’ve ever had”. I guess everyone has their own view on the topic but for me, Laos does it right. And then some!

I was on my way back to my guesthouse with no real plan in mind, when I happened past a tour agency around the corner from my hotel. I decided to stop in to see what was on offer as I had been thinking it may be nice to go see the waterfall today. There was a sweet looking girl at the end of the counter who seemed troubled by all the choices. I offered her my two cents, summarizing what I had learned the day about the local tours. She was very appreciative and we seemed to get on, so we decided take a day trip to the waterfalls together. Armed with a bag of cherimoyas and a new friend, I smiled to myself that my birthday was already turning out to be fantastic and it wasn’t even 10 o’clock!

Grateful for birthday luck.

I wandered around town and noticed it was quite small. I liked all the activity and the market stalls that were spouting up all over the place. It seems that at night, this place comes alive. I went for a massage and ended up giving the girl at the front desk my lip gloss. She was so enamored by it and explained to me that they cannot get such things here. I wondered how different it would be to live in a culture that so values modesty. The petite young lady wistfully revealed her secret wishes to wear short skirts and makeup. She explained that Australians and Canadians were well known for our sense of style. Really?

I wandered home that night through the quiet streets and realized that this town seems to be stuck in another era. Sure there are cars and electricity but the attitude seems to be from a simpler time. I think I would trust the honor system here more so than most other places I’ve been. I tested it a few times when I had to promise to come back and pay later having run out of Kip (the local currency). Every single time they just smiled with eyes brimming trust, nodding their heads with understanding. They didn’t even want me to leave anything for insurance. My Word was sufficient.

I meandered down the main street which turns into a huge market at night. The atmosphere was subdued yet delightful and children were visible at every other stall. I admired the colorful handmade wares and their impressive attention to detail. After having asked a few prices, I was sure I would not be escaping Luang Prabang without a few reminders of my time here.

Grateful for honor.

We passed by more than a dozen tiny towns full of old wooden boxes houses with dirt floors. Majority of the people, old and young, were working at smashing bunches of long grass on the road repeatedly. At first I thought they were making the brooms I have been so used to using here in SE Asia. Then I began to think that this has something to do with rice…I am not sure but there was way too much of it to be all brooms. I felt a little ignorant that I didn’t know how rice is made but I resolved to find out.

Perhaps the thing that struck me most was the children. They were exceptionally beautiful. I couldn’t get enough of them and their rosy cheeks. I hoped that we would make a stop somewhere I would be able to have some interaction with them. One brave young toddler yelled and waved his arms in lighthearted defiance at our passing van. Our driver blasted his horn in response and scared the little guy practically out of his skin.

We stopped at the top of one mountain at a remote makeshift restaurant that was obviously a family home. Our driver popped out of the van and motioned to us that we had 15 minutes. He was obviously expected as the small thin woman quickly laid out a veritable feast for him.

I followed suit and ordered some vegetable dish which infact, turned out to be one of the best I have had yet. I suspect that the greens were plucked from her garden minutes before hitting the pan. And whatever the sauce was, it was perfectly seasoned which is tough to do for a picky salt lover as myself.

My favorite part of this journey so far was the interaction that I had with the children at this short but sweet rest stop. They were two girls about three and six with the rosiest cheeks I have ever seen. Shy but curious they peered out at us slowly sneaking closer and closer. I was able to tempt them with a few sparkly stickers which I stuck on the tops of their hands. Just when you think their gorgeous brown eyes couldn’t get any bigger, they did. Suddenly I was their new friend and to be honest, I couldn’t get enough of them. I was the last one back to the van after having dragged out my goodbyes to this charming little family as long as possible.

Finally we arrived in Luang Prabang which was not as beautiful as I had expected it to be. Maybe because it is a UNESCO world heritage site I thought it would be much more…majestic. But it was kind of more geared towards history and architecture. I guess I left the magical nature behind in Vang Vieng.

Grateful for chance encounters.

I really enjoyed the ride although by the end three hours later, I’ll admit I was eager to reach the shore. I certainly appreciated the stretches of river I covered with no one else in sight. No kayakers, no tubers, no motor boats, no swimmers. Just me and the birds. I admired the nature which included some little goats grazing in the tall grassy banks. A little local boy playing solo in the trees yelled and waved at me excitedly. The water was not as cold as I thought it would be and the sun kept me warm. I used my new fake (they just CAN’T be genuine for only two dollars) Croc flip flips as paddles to get me to town before the sun hit the tops of the rounded limestone tree covered peaks.

When I finally pulled in, I was pretty proud of myself for making it the whole way. I forced down some of the worst Laap ever made while watching the sunset over the clouds of smoke. They were burning the grass across the river and it made for quite an interesting show. I was glad the wind was blowing away from me but the smell of burnt grass was still quite overwhelming. I turned in for a relatively early night in preparation for the long bus ride up the country I would be embarking on.

Grateful for safety first.

Laap is a savory mixture of herbs, spices and mint leaves mixed with your choice of protein (fish for me but I have tasted it done successfully with tofu). There appears to be no added fat or oil so the dish is extremely healthy and surprisingly light. It is usually served with sticky rice but I prefer steamed and brown if possible. Matched with the long green beans and cucumber and you have yourself quite a meal. After eating it I find I have tremendous energy and feel light yet pleasantly full. Needless to say, it is my new favorite food and I shall be eating it every day so long as I can find it.

It is almost as if for a few brief moments gravity and time are warped. I find myself moving a whole lot slower and a sensation of warm happiness saturates me from the inside out. It’s very cool indeed. After the initial shock and worry that perhaps there may be something seriously wrong with me, I have begun just observing it. So far there are no consistent similarities between the occurrences so I have wonder what brings it on….

Nevermind. I am just going to enjoy it rather than analyze it to death. I will chalk it up to this heavenly environment that I find myself. I am currently laying in my hammock watching the kids splashing about in the river. Their laughing is accompanied by the clang of the cowbells. Twice a day, a herd of about forty of the healthiest looking (read: not fat nor skinny) cows I have ever seen, wander past my bungalow along the riverside. Many of them adorable tan color little calves tails swishing away contentedly. Sometimes some lost straggler will come barreling past to catch up with the others. The loud chime around its neck ding a ling a linging away frantically. Now that’s what I call more cowbell!

Yesterday I was walking down the river and got caught in the middle them so reached my hand out to pet one of the babies. There was no fear or trepidation from the creature, just a curious look right into my eyes. I understand that not only the cats and dogs are happier here but so are the cows and chickens. The animals I have seen so far in Laos seem to be more “natural.”

Today, I fed Black Cat some coconut milk which she lapped up greedily. Together we cuddled in my hammock watching the butterflies land from flower to flower. I have been watching the army of ants parade up and down the big tree beside my balcony for hours. Its amazing how polite and organized they are in efforts to complete their operation, whatever that may be today. I still can’t figure out what they are doing. It’s quite the mission, that’s for sure.

I haven’t tried the tubing or any of the adventure activities yet. I am supposing I may be too old for the tubing (bum immersed in cold water for three hours) but that maybe could get away with kayaking down the river. The bobbing around in the authentic tractor inner tube or paddling the more sophisticated kayak? Revisit my indulgent youth or celebrate my maturity gracefully? A growing awareness of my impending birthday doesn’t help the decision making process, that’s for sure.

Grateful for simplicity.

When a couple of young local girls rode by on a pink bike trailing behind them a hundred balloons, my inner child completely took over. They heard (as did everyone else in a 20 mile radius) me squeal with delight and promptly made a wide U turn back towards me. How the little 10 year old could double her sister and cart around such a wide load without losing one balloon and/or her balance, I will never know. I couldn’t resist the businesslike and very convincing sales pitch of these two little beauties. They took their job quite seriously and I admired their work ethic. After helping me carefully sort through the crowd of SpiderMan, Transformers, Minnie Mouse and other cutesy cartoons paid them 10,000 kip (about a dollar) for a Hello Kitty.

I justified the frivolous purchase by dedicating the balloon to the kitty that died that morning. I solemnly covered my heart with my hand and looked up to the sky honoring the little life that was lost. I know it sounds silly but somehow it made the heaviness feel better. Alana and I giggled as we took turns carrying the bouncy ball of floaty joy reliving a flash of childhood. Who *doesn’t* love carrying a balloon around?

Needless to say, although yesterday ended better than it started, I still felt it was time to move on this morning. After waking way too early, I purchased the 40,000 kip ticket from the tour company across the street from my hotel. I puttered around on the internet while I waited in the lobby for my supposed VIP transportation. A couple hours later, I was herded onto a large coach along with 40 or so others. There were not enough seats for everyone so they placed plastic lawn chairs in the aisle near the front and motioned for the last few to sit down. I was amused in a shocked kind of way.

A little over three hours later, we rolled into the small getaway of Vang Vieng. Most known for its bizarre tubing experience that attracts young crazy backpackers from far and wide, I was a little leery. But the breathtaking nature that surrounds this town is not to be missed. I was completely blissed out as watched the sun sparkle off the river then melt down into karst peaks. I munched on some fresh spring rolls (15,000 kip) while I sipped my orange/carrot shake (5000 kip) which was surprisingly more than enough to satiate me.

After taking the very long way around, I finally found the accommodation that my friend Lisa recommended me. Molina Bungalows were just as she described and for just 50,000 kip I have a new home for the night. They are far enough away from the racket that the drunken revelers kick up yet close enough to partake in the array vittles of offer at any number establishments. I knew the deal was sealed when a jet black brand new kitten wobbled over to me as the owner was writing me in the register. The tiny furry face peered up at me and slowly blinked her somewhat crossed eyes as if trying to focus. If a cat ever needed glasses, it was this one. I scooped her up excitedly and asked her name.

“Her name is Black Cat,” stated Mr. Phet very matter of factly.

“Well…can I take her to my house?” I inquired hopefully snuggling the ball of fur as she started purring loudly.

“Obviously,” he replied with a warm smile and a laugh.

Grateful for cats and kittens.

The next day, I took a cooking class at “Asia Scenic” which included an educational field trip to the food market. Gay, our young bubbly teacher, took us into her garden and told us about all the spices and herbs she grew there. Our group of 10 young traveler all chose different dishes so we got to learn almost the entire spectrum on offer. My selections included spring rolls, pad see uw, coconut milk soup, massaman curry, deep fried banana and what turned out to be my favorite, chicken with cashew nuts. The whole day was exciting and I thoroughly enjoyed not only preparing my dishes but eating them too. Everything turned out perfectly and I couldn’t believe that I was responsible for creating such flavorful fare with such little effort. I am really looking forward to cooking these again in my own kitchen for future dinner parties.

The next day, I decided to head over to Laos for a spell as my Thai visa was about to run out. A small group of us (some friends I had met down in Koh Phangan) climbed aboard the night bus for the 12 hour journey. Unfortunately for me, I was seated in the top very back by the window which I believe was the coldest place on the bus. I watched “Where the Wild Things Are” on the laptop before trying unsuccessfully to contort myself into a decent sleeping position.

In the morning, we were dropped off at the bus station where we got a tuk tuk to take us the 10 minutes to the Thai-Laos border. After getting stamped out of Thailand, we got on a shuttle which carted us over the “Friendship Bridge” over the Mekong River. I paid the $42 dollars for a visa (Canadians have to pay substantially more than any other country for a Laos visa) and happily walked on into a new country.

We were all pretty exhausted and I was really looking forward to getting some rest in Vientiane. I would have gladly overpaid for a bed to sleep in but the others I was with were hell bent on finding a good deal. After scoping out a dozen guesthouses and hotels, we finally found one we could all agree on which happened to have a great view of the river. We grabbed a quick bite at the Joma bakery before I packed it in for the night. I zoned out a bit in front of the TV which was showing some awful Ben Stiller movie before passing out.

It’s a new day now and I am back at the Joma café as I write this. I am feeling a little sad because this morning I watched a cat get hit and killed by a car. I didn’t cry but I felt really really empty and cold as I watched her body twitch and convulse as her spirit left her. I said a little prayer for the dead cat as a local walked over casually picking her up by her tail and flinging her off the road. I hope I never get so numb to death.

I am going to go for a wander in this very French influenced town and look for a place to get a massage. Its certainly much more European here than I expected and the place is chockablock with tourists. It is a interesting fusion of French Asian but still, I am very well aware of the basic quality of life here.

Grateful for affect.

Selling everything from kitschy t-shirts to hand stitched bags to massages of whatever body part is sore to pointy hats to glowing lanterns and crafted umbrellas to intricate jewelry to Italian gelato (I had coconut and amaretto) to creative expressions of bugs/dragons/motorcyles portrayed by rope/used cans/wood/leaves/you name it to eco-friendly stationary to scarves of every color of the rainbow and every texture under the moon to spices to sexy underwear to Muay boxing shorts to humongous murals painted on canvas being worked on by the artists who glance up every now and then with a gentle smile.

Even if I wanted to buy something, I would have been paralyzed by decision. It took my 6 tasters and 10 minutes just to choose an ice cream flavor! At one point, I just sat down overwhelmed by the vastness and perfection of it all. Each seller took great pride in their space arranging their wares neatly and symmetrically. Though many seems to be selling similar things there was always some variation in presentation.

And the prices! I don’t even want to go there. Lets just say that this place would test even the most staunch anti-consumerism advocate. Even I, who has been on a constant quest to live more simply (which in this moment means to lighten my backpack) found myself rationalizing how it was my duty to support the local economy. I had to shake myself when I began eying the suitcases and plotting how much STUFF I could cart home with me.

But I am happy to say that other than tasty treats, I did not buy anything. My strength of will prevailed and I came home empty handed. I relayed my excitement over having experienced such a fantastic market to the owner upon returning to the hotel. He seemed amused when I congratulated myself on showing such endurance at not succumbing to the peddlers.

“Ahhh Just wait, Little One! Tomorrow is Sunday,” the animated grey haired man pointed out knowingly.

“And? What does that mean?” I inquired with a curious frown noting silently that he was the littler one between the two of us.

“The Sunday market is much bigger and even more extravagant than the nightly bazaar. You shall see,” he promised with wink.

“Oh no!” I gasped only half joking. Perhaps I wouldn’t escape unscathed after all. I sighed with playful exasperation as I turned on my heel up to my cozy home for the night. Over stimulated and feet sore, I knew I had better get some rest if there was any way I was going to make it out to the main event.

Grateful for precise organization.

Where the tallest spires of temples are not shrouded by modern skyscrapers and where the street trash is sorted into their respective recycle bins. Where the busiest streets are still tame enough to walk across rather than the run for your life speed one must adopt to navigate CM’s bloated big brother, Bangkok.

I am sitting on the 5th floor rooftop restaurant of my hotel having breakfast as a morning breeze caresses my cheeks. Although the sun is beating down on me unfettered by clouds, it’s not too hot but I can feel myself already getting a tan. Nine AM and the city hasn’t quite woken up yet. The occasional market goer plods on briskly to discover what’s on offer for today. The birds chirp merrily as I admire the stunning mountain backdrop which surround this quaint gem.

I am feeling much better now. I am still a little sick with my cold but I am convinced the worst is over. My heart and soul feel a lot better too though I am not sure what changed. Perhaps it was the couple days I dedicated to serious self care. When I first arrived I stayed in a 10 person dorm room of a cheap ($3/night at A Little Bird Guesthouse) but cheery hostel. This was great for socializing and getting tips from other travelers, but not very restful.

The next day I splurged on a highly rated hotel ($80/night Rimping Village) a bit further from the center. It was very quiet and comfortable but rather isolated in its remote little neighborhood. This can be easily remedied by taking the complementary bikes for a spin and I saw many families doing just that. As for me, I was determined to heal my sore lungs. The caring staff brought me limes and honey for my tea and I crawled into my king size bed. Tucked in snuggly into the fluffy duvet, I watched the DVDs that I borrowed from the front desk until I fell asleep.

The next day, I felt a little better though not quite out of the woods yet. I decided to find somewhere in the middle where I could be comfortable for a few days but not break the bank. I decided on a cute little boutique hotel called The Small ($30/night). I thanked the owner of Rimping Village who insisted on driving me and checked into my new home for the next three days.

As soon as I entered the lobby, I was impressed by the vibrant colors and bold design. The fun continued up into my room on the 5th floor which was adorned with a pink and bright orange color scheme. I loved the high ceilings and sharp lines agreeing with almost all the artists choices. I was fascinated by the open shower concept. With glass on three sides, one could lift the blinds and look into the sleeping area or out to the street to watch the city below. I decided this could be a entertaining feature for couples and exhibitionists especially.

I am delighted to have found this place and am contemplating extending my visit already. I thought about taking some cooking classes as this is one of the major activities this region is famous for, along with massage schools and spiritual pursuits. I get the feeling my plan of heading to Laos may be delayed some as there is so much to explore here first.

Grateful for changing skylines.